Shoes

Oxford, Derby or loafer: what's the difference?

The distinction comes down mainly to the lacing. The Oxford has closed lacing: a slim silhouette and elegant profile make it the most formal style, perfect with a suit and for important occasions. The Derby has open lacing: more comfortable, more versatile and slightly more casual, it suits high insteps better and goes from the office to jeans. The laceless loafer is the ultimate versatile piece: smart casual, ideal in summer with chinos or lightweight trousers.

Which shoes for which occasion?

• Ceremony, wedding, formal suit: smooth leather Oxfords in a dark shade (black, dark brown).
• Everyday office wear: Derbies or Oxfords, depending on the level of formality required.
• Smart casual, stylish weekend: loafers, Chelsea boots or soft leather Derbies.
• Relaxed casual: leather trainers, suede loafers, nubuck shoes.
• Autumn, spring and winter: leather Chelsea boots and ankle boots, which protect while staying elegant.

Smooth leather, suede or nubuck: which should you choose?

Smooth leather is the most formal and the most hard-wearing, easy to polish, ideal for an Oxford or a dress Derby. Suede and nubuck (buffed leather with a velvety finish) are warmer and more casual, perfect on a loafer or Chelsea boot for a smart relaxed look, but more sensitive to water and stains. For a first versatile, easy-to-wear pair, smooth leather in an understated shade remains the safest choice.

How do you match your shoes to your outfit?

The basic rule: the sleeker and darker the shoe, the more formal it is. Black Oxfords are reserved for dark suits and ceremonies; brown Derbies or loafers go with a daytime suit as well as casual trousers. Match the colour of your shoes to your belt for a coherent outfit. Avoid overly formal black Oxfords with a relaxed look: loafers or leather trainers work better. Suede and nubuck naturally sit in a more casual register.

How do you choose the right size and comfort?

A dress shoe should hold the heel without pinching across the width. Try shoes on at the end of the day (when the foot is slightly swollen) and with the socks you will wear. The open-laced Derby adapts better to wide feet or high insteps. Quality leather gives slightly and moulds to the foot over time: a little snugness at first is normal, pain is not.

How do you care for smooth leather shoes?

The habits that extend the life of a pair: never wear the same shoes two days in a row so the moisture can evaporate, use wooden shoe trees to keep their shape and absorb moisture, and brush them after each wear. Nourish smooth leather with a suitable cream or polish several times a year to stop it drying out and cracking. If the pair gets caught in the rain, dry it away from any heat source, with tissue paper inside.

How do you care for suede and nubuck?

These buffed leathers need specific care, never smooth leather products. Before the first wear, apply a waterproofing spray and reapply it regularly, as these materials are sensitive to water and stains. Brush dry with a suitable brush (crepe or soft bristles) to lift the nap and remove dust. For stains, use a special suede eraser. A renovating spray revives faded colour. Contrary to popular belief, when well cared for, this leather is very hard-wearing and durable.

Why choose Jerem shoes?

The Jerem men's shoes collection brings together the essential styles of the wardrobe: Oxfords, Derbies, loafers, Chelsea boots, ankle boots and leather trainers, in smooth leather, suede and nubuck. From ceremonies to everyday wear, complete your outfit with the right pair and pair it with our suits, trousers and accessories for a look that is coherent from head to toe.