How to iron suit trousers without making them shiny
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Badly ironed men's suit trousers can be spotted from three metres away: a greasy shine on the thighs, a crease that zigzags, pockets that pucker. Ironing suit trousers doesn't call for a professional iron; it calls for the right setting, a protective cloth and a precise order. Allow fifteen minutes for a crisp finish, eight for a quick touch-up with steam.
The method below works just as well on fine wools as on wool-polyester blends.
How to iron suit trousers quickly and easily
For a quick result, the method comes down to five steps. Turn the trousers inside out. Set the iron according to the fabric shown on the care label. Lay a damp pressing cloth on top and iron the waistband and pockets flat. Then line up both legs, seam on seam, to set the centre crease in a single pass. The steam does the work, not the pressure. Hang the trousers on a wooden hanger for five minutes before putting them on: that's when the drape sets.
Allow eight minutes for the express method, fifteen for a careful press. A garment steamer can stand in for the iron in most cases, except when you need to restore a sharp crease.
Setting the iron for the fabric: the only guide that matters
Every fabric has a maximum temperature; go above it and you either make it shiny or scorch the fibres. The exact composition of your suit fabric is given on the care label. Here are the guidelines I use:
- Worsted wool (Super 100's to 130's): 110-150 °C, two-dot setting, light steam, pressing cloth essential on the right side.
- Wool-polyester: 110 °C maximum, one- to two-dot setting, never without a cloth in between.
- Cotton and linen: 180-200 °C, three dots, plenty of steam; linen can be ironed directly while still damp.
- Silk: 110 °C, one dot, on the reverse side, with a dry pressing cloth.
- Pure synthetic fibres: 100 °C, one dot, steam off, otherwise the surface of the fabric melts.
Not sure about the label? Test the iron on the inside of a pocket for three seconds. No mark, no shine: you're good to go.
Setting the centre crease without letting it drift
The crease on suit trousers runs from the bottom of the fly down to the hem, passing through the middle of the knee. To get it straight, lay the trousers flat on the board and place one leg on top of the other, lining up the inside leg seam with the outside seam. The fold line appears by itself. Spray lightly, lay the pressing cloth on top and run the iron over each leg just once, pressing firmly.
Dampen the pressing cloth with a water spray rather than soaking it. Leave the leg to cool for five seconds under a book to set the crease. A crease that has set as it cools will hold for up to three wears.
Common mistakes to avoid at all costs
What damages suit trousers is almost never the iron itself, but the way it's used. The mistakes I see most often:
- Dry-ironing a wool fabric: the fibre heats up without any moisture, flattens and turns shiny.
- Forgetting the pressing cloth on the right side: the soleplate polishes the surface, and the shine is irreversible.
- Crushing the pockets and waistband under full steam: these areas are several layers thick, so they leave imprints on the outside.
- Ironing wool trousers that are still damp from the wash: the steam cooks the fabric and sets any unwanted creases.
- Leaving a crease behind the knee because you didn't pull the leg taut before pressing.
If your trousers have gone shiny, spray them with clean water mixed with a dash of white vinegar. Brush the wool in the direction of the nap with a soft brush. Leave to dry on a hanger for twelve hours. Three rounds are enough in most cases. If the mark persists, take them to the dry cleaner's.
Ironing trousers without an iron: emergency methods
You're in a hotel, there's no iron to hand and your appointment is in an hour. Here are three techniques I've tested that work on lightly creased suit trousers: the steamy shower, the garment steamer and the damp towel.
The steamy shower: hang the trousers on a hanger in the bathroom, close the door and run the hot water for ten minutes. The moisture relaxes the wool and the suitcase creases drop out. That said, folding your suit properly for your suitcase is still the best way to prevent them.
A garment steamer does better than an iron on large areas and never flattens the fabric. Keep it for freshening up between wears: it's no substitute for proper ironing when it comes to setting the crease. A damp towel pressed by hand for thirty seconds deals with localised creases, which is handy before a meeting.
Making the press last longer between ironings
Well-kept suit trousers can go two or three wears without ironing. Hang them on a wide hanger as soon as you take them off, brush them regularly to remove dust from the wool, and let them rest for twenty-four hours before wearing them again. Brushing plus rest is enough to remove creases from a suit jacket and its trousers alike, without exposing them to heat.
Washing matters as much as ironing: suit trousers don't go in the washing machine unless the label explicitly says so. To find out how to wash a suit without ruining it, follow the fabric-by-fabric guide. A trip to the dry cleaner's once or twice a year takes care of deep cleaning; in between, your iron and pressing cloth do the rest. A wardrobe that lasts comes down to this ten-minute weekly routine, not to expensive equipment.
The final rule: get your trousers ready the night before. Hung up overnight, they dry completely and the crease sets.
