How to wear a men's shirt in 2026

The shirt separates a well-dressed man from a correctly dressed one. Everything is decided within a centimetre: the ease across the chest, the fall over the trousers, the drape of the fabric. Here is how to wear a men's shirt with precision, from the office to Saturday in jeans.

Choosing the right cut for your build

The shoulders come first when choosing a shirt. The seam must sit exactly on the bone, no further in, no further out. If that point is wrong, no alteration will save the garment.

Then comes the ease across the chest. Allow roughly two fingers between your torso and the fabric. Too fitted and you pull on the buttons; too loose and you swim in it. A perfectly judged cut follows the silhouette without accentuating it.

For a slim man, the slim cut sets off the chest. For a broader build, the straight fitted cut keeps a clean line without constricting. The waist should be taken at navel height according to your build. If you are looking for that kind of cut, our selection of men's slim fit shirts brings together the most suitable models.

• Shirt cuff: it should show 1 to 1.5 cm below the jacket sleeve.
• Length: at least 15 cm below the waistband so the shirt tucks in properly.
• Neck: slide one finger between the collar and the neck, no more, no less.

Tucked in or out: the real rule

The subject comes up every time you put on a shirt. The question comes down to the style of shirt. A classic shirt with rounded tails is worn tucked into the trousers: its tails reach well below the hips to stay in place.

A shirt with straight, short tails is worn untucked. That is the format of casual shirts, cut for relaxed use in oxford or chambray.

The practical rule: if the hem goes past your back pocket, tuck it in. If it stops above, leave it out.

Context decides. At the office, with suit trousers and a matching belt, the shirt is worn tucked in. At the weekend, over raw denim, a short shirt worn untucked looks more modern.

Building a formal outfit around a shirt

The basis of formal menswear rests on three pieces: a white shirt, a dark suit, a tonal tie. The semi-cutaway collar works everywhere, from the double Windsor to the four-in-hand. It is the default choice when in doubt.

For the office, the classic shirt in white remains the base, followed by sky blue and fine stripes. Discreet patterns (fine gingham, Prince of Wales) work with an open collar under a jacket, never with a patterned tie. One strong pattern per outfit.

Ironing makes all the difference. A limp collar is enough to ruin an €800 suit. Steam-iron it: collar first, then the front, cuffs last.

For pairings, a navy men's suit calls for a white shirt and a burgundy tie. Charcoal grey takes sky blue. On fabrics, choose poplin for formal wear, twill or royal for the cooler seasons.

Casual style: the shirt outside the suit

Taking the shirt out of tailoring means wearing menswear differently. A blue oxford, sleeves rolled, open over a white t-shirt, raw denim, Derbies or trainers: the casual silhouette that never dates.

Checked or denim shirts work well over beige chinos or dark jeans. Avoid layering several strong patterns. A plain shirt over patterned trousers, or the reverse, never both.

Rolled sleeves follow a method. Roll two or three times, keeping the cuff visible on the inside. The ideal height: just below the elbow.

For buttoning, two open buttons are enough. A shirt worn open over a t-shirt also serves as a light overshirt, the spring version of a jacket.

Choosing the right shirt for the occasion

It all starts with the collar. French collar for the office, rounded club collar for a vintage result, button-down collar for smart casual style. The Mandarin collar suits a modern tieless look, but calls for a clean cut to avoid the pyjama effect.

Let the climate dictate the fabric. Poplin for mild temperatures, brushed twill in winter, crumpled linen in summer. 100% cotton remains the base.

Quality garments are recognised by three details: the density of the fabric (cotton of at least 120 to 140 threads), the finish of the buttonholes, the collar interlining.

To start a solid wardrobe, plan on four well-chosen shirts: one white, one sky blue, one finely striped, one in oxford. They cover 90% of situations.

FAQ: your questions about the men's shirt

What does the shirt symbolise?

The shirt was long a men's undergarment, worn beneath the jacket. In the twentieth century it became a social signal: stiff collars for white-collar workers, half sleeves for labourers. Today it remains a marker of elegance.

How should a man wear a shirt?

Three rules: fit at the shoulders above all, length consistent with how you intend to wear it, careful ironing. For an elegant result, wear the shirt tucked into suit trousers. For a casual look, wear it untucked over jeans.

What is the three-colour rule for men?

An outfit should never show more than three visible colours, accessories included. Neutrals (white, grey, black, beige) do not count. Example: navy suit, white shirt, brown shoes — three colours and a neutral. This discipline structures the outfit without making it dull.

What should you wear under a shirt in winter?

A thin cotton or merino t-shirt, crew neck, cut close to the body. Avoid V-necks that show and synthetic fabrics. Merino regulates temperature without itching. Tuck it into your trousers so it never shows.