How to wear a men's denim shirt: the modern wardrobe

The denim shirt has left the workwear aisle to settle at the heart of the urban men's wardrobe. It combines what few garments manage: the robustness of a solid weave, the suppleness of a shirt, a bearing that slides from the office to the weekend. One precise question remains. How do you wear a men's denim shirt without falling into the cowboy cliché?

At Jerem, we see this garment work on every kind of man. The young Paris executive, the forty-something who wants to break up his suit, the lover of fine fabrics. A piece like this deserves precise handling. Here are our clear rules, with concrete outfits and the mistakes to avoid.

Choosing your men's denim shirt: cut, weight and wash

Before style comes the product. A good denim shirt has three technical qualities. A denim weighing between 6 and 9 oz, neither too stiff nor too light. A fitted cut that is not tight, with the shoulder sitting properly. A wash that matches the intended use.

Raw denim, very dark, almost navy, gives the dressiest result. It pairs with grey suit trousers or a beige chino. A medium wash, a clear blue, stays versatile with jeans or chinos. Light, washed-out colours are for the weekend.

The choice of size changes everything. A slim model works with straight-leg trousers. A regular slim or oversized fit slips under an unstructured blazer. Think about the collar: an open Italian collar dresses up a slim shirt, a button-down collar anchors the American smart-casual look.

For comfort, a mostly cotton blend with a touch of elastane brings ease without flattening the drape. Our advice: check the composition, it is the difference between a low-end model and a garment built to last.

Pairing the denim shirt with the bottom half

The most useful rule fits in one sentence. Never two denims of the same colour layered together. A medium-blue shirt over identical blue jeans creates an accidental dungaree effect. Two options work. Break cleanly with another fabric (chino, flannel, wool). Or play on the contrast between light and raw, keeping at least two shades between them.

Our favourite outfits, tested and approved:

• Medium-wash shirt + charcoal grey suit trousers : the most flattering combination for a Friday at the office.
• Raw shirt + beige or olive chino: a classic that rejuvenates a look that is too safe.
• Light shirt + dark raw jeans: the only double-denim variation that is really wearable in town.
• Medium shirt + grey flannel trousers: elegant, warm, perfect for autumn.

Layering: blazer, jacket and coat over denim

This is where the piece gains depth. Worn under a navy blazer, the shirt creates a modern contrast of textures. Simple rule: the two blues must be clearly different. A grey flannel blazer, a black men's leather jacket or a structured cardigan work just as well.

In cooler weather, this shirt replaces an overshirt under a wool coat. It brings texture and colour into the middle of an otherwise dark outfit. Watch the length: it should show a centimetre below the jacket at most, never more.

The special case of the unstructured blazer

An unlined blazer, in linen or a cotton blend, sits well with a light shirt worn open over a white t-shirt. This summer trio has an unapologetically Italian feel, much seen at Pitti Uomo. Finish with beige cotton trousers and loafers.

Occasions: office, weekend, dinner in town

The denim shirt goes everywhere, provided you adjust it to its setting. At the office, favour a dark tone, tucked into tailored trousers, with well-kept leather shoes. A blazer is enough to set the professional tone. Avoid worn-out faded colours and rolled sleeves.

At the weekend, everything loosens up. Sleeves turned twice, two buttons open, shirt worn out over a chino or raw jeans. With minimalist white sneakers or brown leather boots, the outfit reads as available without being careless.

For dinner in town, the shirt plays the contrast card. It dresses you up less than a white shirt, but asserts a more personal character. Wear it under a dark blazer, with black or charcoal trousers and smooth leather derbies. The result: a style that looks like nobody else's in the room.

The mistakes to avoid at all costs

Here are the errors that come up far too often, to be banned outright:

• Monochrome head-to-toe blue : medium shirt over medium blue jeans, same shade. Avoid it.
• A shirt that is too big, shoulders dropping, sleeves too long: the fabric amplifies every flaw.
• Cufflinks fastened on a relaxed look: visually incoherent.
• Denim shirt tucked into jeans: cowboy effect, never flattering in town.
• Too many accessories. A Texan belt, a bandana, a hat: every western addition pushes the look towards fancy dress.

According to the French DGCCRF, a textile's composition must appear on the label. Get into the habit of checking: 100% cotton ages better than a blend loaded with elastane, and develops a patina over time.

Caring for your shirt to keep it for years

Denim likes patience. Wash at 30°C inside out, with a gentle detergent. Avoid the tumble dryer, which breaks the fibre. One wash every three or four wears is enough for a shirt worn under a jacket. Dry flat to preserve the cut.

A trick from the dry cleaner: iron at medium heat, inside out, slightly damp. The collar keeps its drape. A well-cared-for shirt lasts ten years. That too is real elegance: investing in a garment you will wear for a long time.

Three signature looks to copy

Here are three complete outfits that work without thinking. The first, business Friday: raw shirt tucked in, grey suit trousers, brown belt, derbies. You can slip in a dark wool-knit tie for an unexpected twist.

The second, Saturday in town: medium-wash shirt open over a white t-shirt, olive chino, white leather sneakers. Simple, modern, never wrong. Add a mid-season leather jacket when it turns cool.

The third, winter dinner: dark shirt under a thick grey cardigan, charcoal flannel trousers, leather boots. This approach works just as well for a man of 30 as for an older profile.

This piece has lost none of its relevance in menswear. It calls for a precise eye on size, wash and pairing. The rest is a matter of posture. Our guide on how to wear a linen shirt shares the same philosophy of a wardrobe built to last.